Diamonds5 min read

How to choose a diamond: the 4Cs, sizes in mm, GIA reports and budget tips

A guide to choosing a natural diamond: the 4Cs (cut, colour, clarity, carat), a mm-to-carat chart, how to read a GIA report, fluorescence, settings and how to get the best stone for your budget.

Written by Ngọc Diệp Gold ShopUpdated:

How to choose a diamond: the 4Cs, sizes in mm, GIA reports and budget tips
Quick answer

Prioritise an Excellent or Very Good cut, which drives sparkle; choose G–H colour and eye-clean VS2–SI1 clarity for the best value; pick a size in mm that suits the finger. Stones of 3.6 mm and above should come with a certificate (GIA or a Vietnamese lab) whose number matches the laser inscription on the stone.

What are the 4Cs?

The 4Cs are the international criteria for grading a diamond: Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat. Popularised by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), they are now the common language of the trade. Together they determine beauty and price; no single C decides everything.

Cut: the most important factor

Cut is not the shape (round, oval…) but the quality of the facets: proportions, symmetry and polish. A well-cut stone returns light to the eye as brightness, fire (rainbow flashes) and sparkle. A poorly cut stone looks dull and smaller, even with high colour and clarity.

Cut grade (GIA)Assessment
ExcellentOptimal light return; recommended for engagement rings
Very GoodVery beautiful, softer price than Excellent
GoodAcceptable on a tight budget
Fair, PoorLacks sparkle; not recommended

For round brilliants, also check Polish and Symmetry on the report; ideally Excellent for Cut, Polish and Symmetry ("3EX").

Colour

White diamonds are graded from D (completely colourless) to Z (light yellow or brown). Adjacent grades are hard to tell apart by eye, but prices differ significantly.

GroupGradesAdvice
ColourlessD, E, FTop tier, highest price
Near colourlessG, H, I, JBest value: looks white once set
Faint colourK, L, MPairs well with yellow or rose gold

Pairing tip: G–H stones look very white in white gold; I–J stones look harmonious in yellow or rose gold, which masks the faint tint.

Clarity

Most natural diamonds have tiny internal features (inclusions) or surface marks (blemishes). Clarity grades their number, size and position under 10× magnification.

GradeMeaning
FL, IFNo inclusions visible (IF: only tiny surface marks); very rare
VVS1, VVS2Minute inclusions, hard for experts to see at 10×
VS1, VS2Minor inclusions seen at 10×, invisible to the eye
SI1, SI2Noticeable at 10×; many SI1 stones are still eye-clean
I1, I2, I3May be visible to the eye, can affect brilliance

The sweet spot for most buyers is eye-clean VS2–SI1: no visible flaws at normal viewing distance. View the actual stone or a magnified photo before choosing SI.

Carat and size in millimetres

Carat is weight: 1 carat = 0.2 g. In Vietnam, round diamonds are often described by diameter in mm (*ly*), such as "4.1 mm" or "5.4 mm". Approximate conversion for well-cut round stones:

Diameter (mm)Approx. weight (ct)
3.00.10
3.60.17
4.10.25
4.50.33
5.00.45
5.40.60
6.00.80
6.51.00
7.41.50
8.22.00

Reference values; actual weight depends on each stone’s proportions.

Prices jump at round weights such as 0.50 ct and 1.00 ct. A 0.90–0.95 ct stone looks almost like 1 ct but costs noticeably less.

On slim fingers, 4.5–5.4 mm already stands out; larger fingers may suit 5.4–6.5 mm.

Diamond certificates: GIA and local labs

A certificate (report) is an independent assessment of the stone. GIA is the most widely recognised lab in the world; there are also Vietnamese labs. At Ngọc Diệp Gold Shop, diamonds of 3.6 mm and above come with a 4C certificate.

On a GIA report, read:

  • Report number: often laser-inscribed on the girdle; verify it on GIA Report Check.
  • Shape and Cutting Style, Measurements.
  • Carat Weight, Color Grade, Clarity Grade, Cut Grade.
  • Polish, Symmetry: finish quality.
  • Fluorescence: glow under UV (None, Faint, Medium, Strong, Very Strong).
  • Clarity characteristics / plotting diagram: where inclusions are.

When collecting your ring, ask to see the girdle inscription under a loupe and match it to the report.

Is fluorescence bad?

About a third of natural diamonds fluoresce (usually blue) under UV. None or Faint does not affect appearance. Medium to Strong can make I–J stones look whiter, but in a few high-colour stones may look slightly hazy. If possible, view the stone in daylight before deciding.

Shapes and settings

  • Round brilliant: the most sparkle, most popular, holds value well.
  • Oval, pear, marquise: look larger than a round of the same weight and lengthen the finger.
  • Princess, cushion, emerald: modern or vintage styles.

Settings: 4 prongs show more stone and look larger; 6 prongs hold more securely; a bezel is safest for active lifestyles; a halo of small stones makes the centre look bigger. Mountings are usually 750 gold so the prongs are hard enough.

Getting the best stone for your budget

  1. Prioritise an Excellent or Very Good cut.
  2. Drop colour to G–H (or I–J in yellow gold).
  3. Choose eye-clean VS2–SI1 clarity.
  4. Buy just under round weights (0.45 instead of 0.50; 0.90 instead of 1.00).
  5. Consider a halo or oval shape to look larger.
  6. Always ask for a certificate from 3.6 mm and about trade-in policy.

Diamond trade-in

Resale prices are lower than purchase prices because retail includes cutting, certification, mounting and distribution. At Ngọc Diệp, diamond settings carry a 1-month warranty; sell-back is at a 25% deduction and exchange at 20%, based on the invoice price (per the published policy). Keep your invoice and certificate. See How jewellery is priced and traded in.

Quick answers

Which of the 4Cs matters most?

Cut, because it decides brightness and sparkle; a poorly cut stone looks dull even with high colour and clarity.

How many carats is a 4.1 mm diamond?

A well-cut round 4.1 mm diamond weighs about 0.25 carat.

Which colour and clarity give the best value?

For most buyers, G–H colour and eye-clean VS2–SI1 clarity look excellent at a sensible price.

How do I know a GIA report is genuine?

Check the report number on GIA Report Check and match it to the laser inscription on the girdle.

Do Ngọc Diệp diamonds come with certificates?

Yes. Diamonds of 3.6 mm and above have a 4C certificate (GIA or a Vietnamese lab).

What gold should a diamond be set in?

Italian 750 (18K), hard enough to hold prongs; white gold makes stones look whiter, yellow or rose gold suits I–J stones.

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